Author:
Dagmāra Prīberga
Traditional craft skills
Title
The Skill of Bobbin Lace Making (2018)
The association “Latvian People's Art Union”, the cultural and human art centre “Ritums” of the municipality of Riga, the Latvian lace maker association “Savija”, TLMS “Saulīte”, TLMS “Bārbele”, TLMS “Rota”.
Significance in community life
Activities
Bobbin lacemaking is one of the techniques of making lace. Such lace is used to adorn towels, handkerchiefs, scarves, miscellaneous clothing details. The crafter works with several dozens and even hundreds of pairs of bobbins; a needle or a crocheting needle is an auxiliary tool.
Bobbins are approximately 15 cm long wooden cones that have a spool on one end for holding the thread. By crossing and swapping the bobbins, the threads that they hold are also crossed and spun together.
The thread twisting and crossing creates stitches and, through sorting the stitches in different variations, the lace is created. Pins are placed in the intersection points of threads, which helps to create a tight and precise form of lace.
During the bobbin lacemaking process, a drawing is pinned to the base - a special bobbin lacemaking cushion or table - and then removed with the finished product. (D. Prīberga “Senās mežģīnes Latvijā”, page 107)
“In Latvia, the bobbin lacemaking technology allows creating compositions with intricate plant motifs, distinct ribbon patterns or laconic geometric ornaments.” (D. Prīberga “Mežģīņu mantojums Latvijā”, page 289)
Passing on and transferring skills
One person who can be considered a true master of the bobbin lacemaking craft is the creative director of the Folk Applied Arts Studio “Bārbele” Dagmāra Prīberga, who has studied the lace heritage in Latvia, paying special attention to the skill of bobbin lacemaking.
D. Prīberga has been leading the FAAS “Bārbele” for more than 30 years.
Knipelēšanas prasmes saglabāšana un pārmantojamības procesa nodrošināšana ir viens no TLMS “Bārbele” pamatuzdevumiem. Studijas nodarbībās ik nedēļu tiekas desmit studijas dalībnieces, kuras ar knipelēšanu nodarbojas jau vairāk nekā 30 gadus.
History
The most ancient samples of bobbin lace in Latvia have been preserved in the burial sites from the Duchy of Kurzeme and in the tombs of Catholic churches, these samples have been dated to be from the 17th and 18th century.
Museum specialists have cleaned and preserved the lace and these lace samples are in good condition. There are no records in the sources of artisans making bobbin lace in Latvia in the 17th and 18th century, it seems that the Dukes had imported the lace from abroad.
The place of manufacture has not yet been determined.
In Latvia, the 18th and 19th centuries can be considered the bloom of bobbin lacemaking, similarly to other forms of textile works. In the 18th century, following the European fashions, clothing adorned with bobbin lace was mainly worn by the wealthy upper class. The Western European School of lacemaking dominated the clothing of the baronesses.
Interestingly, not just fine and luxurious lace was made with bobbins, but also coarse stitches, ribbons and twine, baskets, bags, horse gear and other items used around the household. The bobbin-made elements also appeared in metalworks, leather and other articles.
The creation and development of Latvian local lace traditions is evidenced by ethnographic textiles.
The most ornate lace from the bobbin lace object selection is found in: Latgale – in the traditional folk wear headcloths, shirts and aprons, in Vidzeme and Zemgale – women's hats, in Kurzeme – in headscarves, cloaks and towel ends, used for adornment of skirts, sheets and other household textiles.
Almost all of the of the examples of folk costume lace and linen towel-end lace made in the 20th and 21st centuries are replicas or variations of 19th century ethnographic lace.
This shows that the preservation and development of local lace craft is facilitated by the living traditions of the people – song festivals, weddings, funerals, baptisms and other events.
Masters
Currently, the excellent masters of the craft that are working in the Folk Applied Arts Studio “Bārbele” are:
• Folk applied arts master Lienīte Dimitre (b. 1940),
• Folk applied arts master Laima Garā (b. 1956),
• Folk applied arts master Vanda Podiņa (b. 1964),
• Māra Rožuleja (b. 1977),
• Gita Prīberga (b. 1979).
After the bobbin lacemaking courses organised by D. Prīberga, this skill continues to be practised by the FAAS “Rota”, head Aija Krūmiņa (b. 1953).
Members of the studio:
• Skarleta Mežale (b. 1973),
• Iveta Cielava-Volkovska (b. 1977),
• Indra Liedskalniņa (b. 1966),
• Sandra Platniece (b. 1985),
• Elīna Liepa (b. 1981).
Valka FAAS “Saulīte” bobbin lacemaking master Inese Pētersone (b. 1957).
Institutions and Organizations
• Riga City Municipal Culture and Folk Applied Arts Center “Ritums”,
• Latvian Lace Maker Association “Savija”,
• “Latvian Folk Art Union”,
• FAAS “Saulīte”,
• FAAS “Rota”,
• FAAS “Bārbele”.
Consolidation
1. Folk art center “Ritums” in cooperation with the Riga Education Information and Methodological Center has organized basic courses on bobbin lace techniques for Riga residents. (2018, 2019)
2. Dagmāra Prīberga, Chairwoman of the Board of the Association “Latvian Folk Art Union”, has developed a cultural heritage Textile Handicraft Skills and Technologies adult non-formal lifelong learning program – textile handicraft courses “Ancient Lace Master Class” and, in cooperation with the Education Department of the Jūrmala City Administration, courses have been organized for the residents of Jūrmala City at Aspazija's House, a branch of the Jūrmala Museum (2022).
3. The Latvian Folk Art Union organized lace-making seminars – in Smiltene at the Mēru Manor (2018) and Tukums (2019), and in Liepāja during the exhibition “The Charm and Secrets of Lace” (2019).
4. The association Latvian Folk Art Union, in cooperation with the Latvian National Culture Centre, organized a lace-making workshop in Tukums (2022) during the exhibition “White Handicrafts Path” at the FAAS “Bārbele”.
5. The Latvian Folk Art Union, in collaboration with the Latvian National Culture Centre, organized a lace-making master class in Vērmanes Garden during the Baltica 2022 Festival.
6. The Latvian Folk Art Union, with the support of the State Cultural Capital Fund, shared a good practice example on the inclusion of the Intangible Cultural Heritage element of Bobbin Lace Making in the ICH list at the international meeting of the General Assembly of the European Crafts Organization in Budapest, Hungary (2022).
7. The Latvian Lace Making Association “Savija” organizes annual bobbin alce exhibitions (2018–2022) and the VKKF has supported the idea of creating a space for the transfer of lace-bobbin skills and traditions (2021).
8. The folk applied art studios “Bārbele”, “Saulīte” and “Rota” organize training in bobbin lace making skills, as well as publish in the magazine “Praktiskie rokdarbi”.
The impact of these activities: 1) Expanding knowledge for stakeholders. The result is visible in exhibition displays. 2) Implementations have been made to ensure continuity through events and master classes (for example, training) – residents have been given the opportunity to learn the lace bobbin skill. 3) Bobbin lace has returned to the decorations and details of folk costumes, which had almost disappeared in the 1990s. They were replaced by embroidery and crochet.
Support has been received from the State Cultural Capital Fund for the popularization and presentation of Element in Europe (contract 2022-R-RK002; €709) – participation in the General Assembly of the European Crafts Organization in Budapest in 2022 – presentation on an example of good practice – the Intangible Cultural Heritage List and the Bobbin Lace Making skill in Latvia).
Support has been received from the Ministry of Education of the State of Jūrmala for the organisation of lifelong learning courses (120 lessons) (paid for the lecturer and provided premises at the Jūrmala Museum branch in Aspasian house).
Support has been received from the Latvian National Cultural Centre for organizing bobbin seminars and master classes (payments have been made to the masters for providing the events).
Support has been received from the State Cultural Capital Fund for the creation of a database and the promotion of Element (contract 2022-1-STP-M26050; 1300 €).
Continuation/development
To ensure the promotion of the Element's recognition (documentation and research):
1) The Association “Latvian Folk Art Union” with the support of the State Cultural Capital Fund will create a computerized database accessible to interested parties on the website www.krustokrustovij.lv, which will contain basic information about the uniqueness of the Element – bobbin skill, taking into account the characteristics of the traditional skills of the regions (2023);
2) Development and implementation of the project “Study on knippling craft experts in Latvia. Supplementation of the database www.krustokrustovij.lv”, within the framework of which it is planned to conduct a study and its documentation. Supplementation of data and facts will provide new and accessible information on the possibilities for the preservation and development of the Element. A systematized research section on knippling craft experts – masters in Latvia will be created. The database will be supplemented, for example, with drawings that were first drawn by hand and scanned into a computer, improved using graphic design programs and used to popularize Element-making specializations. In this process, existing experts in the skill will be identified, who could be involved in the process of creating a training program throughout Latvia. The database will provide a basis for creating an interactive teaching aid in the future, the main goal of which is to create an idea of the Element (traditional skill), which in turn would provide support in stimulating research, stylization and creation, and promoting design thinking (2023–2028);
3) It is planned to create audiovisual material – a master class, which will be placed on the website with the involvement of craftsmen. It is planned to supplement the database with high-quality, high-resolution photographs and technical drawings so that they can be used for research, copies and exact imitations (2024–2028);
4) The Association “Latvian Folk Art Union” in cooperation with the Hungarian House of Intangible Cultural Heritage plans to develop a European Structural Funds project on the popularization of element skills among designers/craftsmen/artists (project submitted in 2023, implementation time in case of project approval from 2023–2025).
To increase interest in lacemaking, master classes, courses and informative seminars will be organized, as well as the database on lace in Latvia on the internet platform will be updated:
1) The association “Latvian Folk Art Union” in cooperation with the Education Department of the Jūrmala City Administration plans to continue the adult non-formal lifelong learning program for the residents of Jūrmala annually (the planned activity depends on attracting financial support in 2023–2028;
2) the association “Latvian Folk Art Union” in cooperation with the Tukums Museum and the Tukums Weavers' Workshop plans to organize lace-making training courses for educators in Tukums (the planned activity depends on attracting financial support in 2023–2024);
3) it is planned to annually popularize the use of bobbin lace in towel products within the framework of the FAAS “Bārbele” exhibitions, to organize informative seminars and master classes (2023–2028);
4) Annually supplement the database on lace in Latvia on the internet platform with the aim of identifying the existing lace collection and continuing its collection and preservation (2023–2028).
The aim is to strengthen the survival of this intangible cultural element and create awareness about the Element. To prevent potential risks affecting the transmission and inheritance of the knippling craft. To improve knowledge and skills through research on the Element and the use of research-based information in the preparation of educational materials.
Dangers
• Children and young people do not have a common training system on traditional folk applied arts, disappearing or threatened traditional crafts, including bobbin lacemaking.
• There are few who know the skills, the masters are ageing.
Applicant
Riga City Municipal Culture and Folk Applied Arts Centre “Ritums”, reg. No. 90011524360
Image Gallery
Video
Publications
Prīberga, D. (2007) Ancient Lace in Latvia. Riga: Zelta grauds
Prīberga, D. (2016) Lace heritage in Latvia. Ancient Lace. A practical book. Riga: Union of Latvian People's Art
Websites
https://www.ritums.lv/lv/galerija/video-2018 - information on the fanned lace course in FAAS “Bārbele”, video taken in May 2017